Our exhibition is getting more and more complicated: artists and curators are disappointed; the budget is expanding and funding is shrinking; there have been some very unfortunate exchanges of emails; tempers are short—so, everything is on track.

To forget the stresses of the show, we toured the catacombs under the basilica of St. Sophia Church. The St. Sophia Church was built on the bases of older churches in the fourth century AD (and completed in the sixth century). Beneath the basilica are over 100 tombs dating from the second century BC to the second century AD. We followed along the maze-like catacombs, descending three stories below the earth. Above us, in the basilica, a wedding was taking place, and we could hear the choir singing as we moved from tomb to tomb.

The basilica of St. Sophia Church is a popular place for Bulgarians to get married. After our tour of the catacombs, we sat in the square outside the basilica, watching the wedding parties queue up for their ceremonies. The water fountain in the centre of the square was a hub of activity; little flower girls and boys in their best dresses and suits took turns trying to fall into the basin of the fountain; anxious-looking brides and grooms posed for photos.

We sat through several weddings this way, waiting for an anti-government protest that was scheduled to take place in front of the state buildings. In Bulgaria protests had become, as one Bulgarian friend described it, “a national hobby.” Many police and media waited for the protest too. But when it came time, only a few protesters showed up. They carried Bulgarian flags and a wreath and marched to the front of the state building. There was no yelling or chanting. A few people spoke through the loudspeaker and then the crowd dispersed. Later, a protester told us the people were disillusioned and that's why the protest was so "lame."